UK kitchen story

The small village of Abermule is located in the lush green hills of Montgomeryshire. Agriculture and raising livestock has been part of the tradition here for generations. Breeder Ifor Humphreys feels like he is part of this tradition even though he has his own approach. The small herd of Wagyu cattle that he breeds is a perfect example of the highest quality requirements in a market influenced by mass production.

This Welsh farmer’s operation is the antithesis of mass production. When he visits his cows in the pasture, he greets them with a fond “Hi girls.” Ifor Humphreys, 50, comes from a farming family. His father and grandfather raised livestock, mainly sheep. For seven years, Ifor Humphreys has been raising Wagyu cattle. He also owns a forest cemetery where village residents, neighbours and friends can find their final resting place.

“The finest veins of fat run through the meat and melt when cooked, making it indescribably juicy, tender, and flavourful” Raising Wagyu cattle puts Humphreys far ahead of the curve. Connoisseurs look upon Wagyu meat as the ultimate delicacy, and it is currently in high demand. On the market it sells at a premium price of around 200 euros per kilogram of tenderloin – much more if the quality is especially high.

This bizarre-sounding story of a test tube birth is as far as modern technology goes. Upper Bryntalch Farm in Wales operates much as it did in the previous century. It’s a deliberate choice.“I have a great respect for organic structures,” explains Ifor Humphreys as he chugs along in his 60-year-old Fordson Major Diesel. He’s on his way to visit the pasture where 40 cows and calves graze peacefully alongside a herd of 300 sheep and eat their fill of juicy Welsh pasture grass. Sometimes a new calf that was born during the night and can be seen taking its first steps in the early morning. “Wagyus calve easily, which is why they’re able to give birth up here on natural pastures,” says the breeder.

In contrast to other cattle breeds, which are ready for slaughter at just over 18 months, Wagyus can live up to 30 months. During their final 5 months, they’re kept in a stall to monitor their weight and gradually prepare them for eventual transport. “That’s also when we start giving them massages and a daily ration of beer,” says Humphreys. In Japan the cattle are massaged to keep them from losing muscle tone in the stall and they’re given beer to stimulate their appetite in hot weather. Ifor Humphreys follows this tradition, though for different reasons: He wants his cattle to become accustomed to human touch.“In the long production chain, transport and slaughter are the weakest links,” says the experienced breeder.

It can reach up to 12 points on the marbling scale, which is the equivalent of Robert Parker’s points for select wines. In Europe, however, such scores are extremely rare. Humphreys’ meat, which is a cross between Wagyu and Angus or Limousin, achieves scores of around 6. By the way, you can order the meat online and have it delivered directly to your home.

The quality of Wagyu beef is so high that you don’t necessarily need to eat filet mignon. Rib eye, T-bone, and chuck steaks also have an intense flavour. Intramuscular fat gives the meat a delicate, mellow flavour. Sauce would be a sin, which is why Wagyu beef in restaurants is always served plain, usually unaccompanied by side dishes.

There’s more than one way to raise animals. Anyone who eats meat should do so with respect and awareness that an animal gave its life.” He believes that extraordinary quality and correspondingly high prices are necessary steps on the way to conscious enjoyment. It may sometimes cost as much as 100 euros. That’s a lot of cash, even for someone who makes good money. But once people have been educated, they never want to eat industrial meat again. They would rather have high quality less often if means having a flavour experience.